But some boobies there for the next time. Watch NPC attacks very carefully, and remember the pathes the monsters go. They will always attack you in the same way except that the longer you play the more they'll spread. If you chose a dense layout, boobies are more or less useless, EXCEPT when it comes to the attacks from NPCs aka the Dreadnoughts and alike. If you, for example, place two defensive rings around the center of your setting, put some boobies on the air line between one outer and one inner tower, because monsters that are trained on destroying defensive towers may down one outer tower but then get trapped before reaching the inner tower. If you choose an uncongested layout, they can be pretty useful. Does one need them? Well, in my opinion, it depends. There are two remaining questions, and they are controversially discussed.
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Before you go any further, upgrade ALL defensive units to max, especially the Bunkers. As a rule of thumb, at a level of 30, your town hall should be at a level of 5. The most expensive thing to upgrade ist the town hall. Octo-Oozes are the perfect stuffing for beginners. If you follow rule #4, the back-up protective tower will erase the attackers. What monsters should go to the Bunkers? The most important job of a Bunker is to keep the attackers busy. Build as many Bunkers as your town hall allows you to, and stuff them! Each Bunker needs a back-up protection of a Sniper or Cannon of at least the same level. This applies to Snipers, Cannons, Teslas, and Lasers, but NOT to Bunkers. Keep in mind that two snipers of level 2 behave different from one sniper of level 4.Ĥ) THOU SHALT upgrade your defensive buildings before you build new ones.
Better upgrade them, even if upgrading takes several days.Ģ) THOU SHALT keep the number of harvesters low, and the number of towers high.ģ) THOU NEED 1/4 of added defensive levels per added harvester levels.Į.g.: 4 harvesters of level 6 need at least a protection of one tower of level 6. But when proceeding you should try to keep the sheer number of harvesters low. while you are under starter protection), it is okay to build as many harvesters as your town hall allows you to.
The difference is not the amount of points BM "blesses" you with but the weighting between the room they take versus the time they need to being built. Same applies to monsters: whether you grow five times 10 Pokeys or 50 at once, it'll result in the same amount of points.Ī similar but totally different question is whether to build many lower-level resource harvesters or few upgraded ones. So it doesn't matter whether you harvest every two minutes or twice a day (as long as you harvest before the available amout of storage space isn't reached). And, since recently, you DO need the Map Room upgraded to conquer more than one yard. You DO need the Yard Planner to check the defensive buildings' coverage and to find orphaned mushrooms. Same applies to the Hatcheries: You don't need a Hatchery with a level higher than 3. Obviously, the first rule to achieve this goal must be:ġ) THOU SHALT NOT build unnecessary buildings, which are: The Hatchery Control Center, the Wild Monster Baiter, the Monster Juicer, and of course any decorative stuff.
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Which in turn raises the question how to act and build stuff while at the same time keeping the "earned" points low. The caveat is: everything you do in the game gives you points, and points eventually accumulate to a higher level. This said, the single most important strategy is to enhance your offensive and defensive powers without raising your level more than necessary.
Other than in other games like "Desert Blitz" or "OGame" or "Empire Universe 2", you cannot attack players with a significantly lower level than yours except that lowbird that attacted you first. But most of them forget a very important detail that makes BM somehow unique: the level constraint. Most of them focus on "which monster is the coolest", and how to place buildings in your yard. A lot of strategy tips and hints on the game "Backyard Monsters" have been around since quite a while.
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